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Key goes in, won't turn 04 Tundra

This is a discussion on Key goes in, won't turn 04 Tundra within the ***Emergency 911 Tundra Down!*** forums, Tweet My 2004 Tundra with 60K miles has never left me stranded until yesterday. The key goes in the ignition, ...

  1. #1
    ryanzelinsky is offline New Breed
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    Key goes in, won't turn 04 Tundra



    My 2004 Tundra with 60K miles has never left me stranded until yesterday. The key goes in the ignition, but it just won't turn. I did park tight against the curb, so I used my 04 Sequoia to pull it away 6". I figured that was the problem, but no go.

    Any ideaas? I've tried silicone in the keyhole to no avail.

    Thanks,
    Ryan


  • #2
    tonyspin's Avatar
    tonyspin is offline Special Breed
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    Pull on the steering wheel right and left while trying to turn key

  • #3
    ryanzelinsky is offline New Breed
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    Problem Solved



    It took a locksmith, Silicone spray and a brass hammer.

    According to my locksmith, it's not uncommon for Toyota's of this age to have this problem at about 75K miles. He encountered the same problem with a Camry last week.

    Problem: 1/2 wafers

    Once we disassembled the dash, sprayed the hole and tapped away with the brass hammer, we were able to turn the key, click a release button and remove the ignition ignition lock cylinder.

    Turns out there are "1/2 wafers" in addition to tumblers that must move up and down together when the key is inserted. They increase security but over time a worn key may not raise them with precision or in my case bend one causing it to stick.

    The locksmith told me my choice was to replace the ignition cylinder ($85) or simply remove the two sets of 1/2 wafers (my choice).

    Three starts later and I think my problem is solved.

    Thanks,
    Ryan

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    Toxarch's Avatar
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    Interesting fix. Thanks for updating.
    Any questions about truck mods I have done need to be asked in the forums. Don't send me a private message about mods cause I probably won't answer that PM unless there is money involved.

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    re.ac.tor's Avatar
    re.ac.tor is online now Super Moderator
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    I was going to suggest what tonyspin did - glad you got her fixed!

    re.ac.tor
    '10 CM SR5 4x2, 5.7L, Sandy Beach Metallic, Michelin LTX M/S2 on JTI 20", Cab Lights, Polk Audio, Drug Information

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  • #6
    ScottJ is offline New Breed
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanzelinsky View Post
    It took a locksmith, Silicone spray and a brass hammer.


    Once we disassembled the dash, sprayed the hole and tapped away with the brass hammer, we were able to turn the key, click a release button and remove the ignition ignition lock cylinder.
    Ryan (or anyone who is in the helping mood )

    I'm having the same issues with my '01 Tundra. Went out this morning to get a coffee and I couldn't turn the key (while in the ignition lock cylinder). Initially my key wouldn't even go into the cylinder more than a quarter inch, but after spraying with WD40 I was able to insert it all the way, however it still won't turn. Several hours later, after repeated attempts, still no luck. Any chance you could elaborate on the 'brass hammer' part? I tried tapping the outer aluminum casing and the top portion of the cylinder repeatedly, but I can't get her to budge. Could you explain what area he tapped the hammer with and was it just light taps or did he give it a couple of moderate hits?

    Thanks is advance.
    Scott

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    ScottJ is offline New Breed
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    Just a quick follow-up on my key issue...I called a locksmith this morning. As many of you probably already know, he advised that the 'symptoms' that I described indicated that it was probably the 'wafers' binding up in the cylinder, (just as Ryan experienced a few years back). Quoted me a price of $250 to come out and remove cylinder, remove the 'bad' wafers and reinstall. AAA (Plus) would pay $100 of this cost, but it still seemed hefty. Unfortunately, I couldn't turn the key to the 'ACC' position so if I were going to replace the cylinder on my own, I'd have to get the old cylinder out, probably by drilling, and then spend $110 for a new cylinder from the dealership. Concerned that I was going to run into problems, I ended up telling the locksmith to schedule the repair.

    In the meantime I went to the dealership and had a new key cut using the truck's VIN (not tracing the key that I possess)...cost $11 per key. I purchased this truck used and was only given 1 key at that time. I believe it actually is the 'valet-key', as it doesn't have the black rubber trim. I figured it would be best to have an accurate key on hand for the locksmith when he arrived. Came home and put the new key in and it turned the ignition.

    I called the locksmith and advised him that the new key was now working. He explained that the wafers are probably still worn and that the same problem could return, even with the new key. He told me that if I bring the truck to him, he will remove the cylinder and remove the damaged wafers for $90.

    I don't want to be far from home and get stuck with this kind of dilemma again, so I guess I'll make the trip to the locksmith this week and get the damaged wafers removed. Based on what I've found on the web and the comments from locksmith, this seems to be a problem that Toyota's are prone to develop.

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    If this happens to any one else this is what you do. Put the key in the ignition and while trying to turn it bump the key with a hammer it will persuade the bad tumblers to cooperate.

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    The famous toyota wheel lock.YOu must turn the steering wheel left or right,and she start like majic.

  • #10
    Moon Shine's Avatar
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    I hope you didn't screw the ignition up with the hammer.I been driving Toy's since the 70's they all do this if the wheel is turn then lock an d shut off.no problem


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